White tea is most often associated with China's Fujian or Yunnan. Snow in Etseri, however, comes from a completely different corner of the tea world – western Georgia, a land between the Caucasus and the Black Sea, where tea cultivation has a tradition spanning more than a century and where old tea gardens are now coming back to life. More
White tea is most often associated with China's Fujian or Yunnan. Snow in Etseri, however, comes from a completely different corner of the tea world – western Georgia, a land between the Caucasus and the Black Sea, where tea cultivation has a tradition spanning more than a century and where old tea gardens are now coming back to life.
The name of the tea is inspired by the Georgian word თოვლი – tovli, “snow”. It is more than just a poetic metaphor. Georgian winters are relatively cold by tea-growing standards, and the tea bushes here can actually be covered with snow. When it melts at the end of winter and the gardens begin to awaken, the first spring growth appears. It is from these young leaves at the beginning of the new season that this white tea is made.
There is a simple image of the local rhythm of the year in this: the snow retreats and the first tea announces the return of vegetation.
Tea on the northern edge of the tea world
Georgia is among the northernmost regions with a long tradition of tea cultivation. Tea began to develop here on a larger scale during the 19th century, and the western part of the country, with its humid climate, abundant rainfall and the moderating influence of the Black Sea, proved exceptionally well suited to growing tea.
During the Soviet era, Georgia became one of the principal tea producers for the entire Soviet Union. Production at the time, however, was focused primarily on quantity. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the extensive tea industry almost disappeared within a few years and many plantations were abandoned. In some places, tea bushes continued to grow without intensive agricultural intervention and gradually became a natural part of the surrounding vegetation.
In recent years, small producers have been returning to Georgian tea, restoring old gardens and replacing the former large-scale production with hand harvesting and small batches of high-quality tea. Alongside traditional black teas, Georgia now also produces green, oolong and white teas.
Etseri is one of the places associated with this new chapter in Georgian tea.
White tea, Georgian style
Snow in Etseri is processed in the very gentle manner typical of white teas. The harvested leaves are neither intensively rolled nor shaped, but retain their natural form during gradual withering and drying. Much of the tea's final character is therefore allowed to develop naturally within the leaf itself.
The result is large, light and irregularly twisted leaves whose colours range from pale green and olive through beige and brown to very dark shades. This varied appearance of the dry leaf is characteristic of similarly processed white teas. During the long withering process, natural oxidation takes place, and its intensity is not the same in every leaf or even in every part of an individual leaf.
In its appearance, processing and overall character, this Georgian tea is close to certain Chinese whole-leaf white teas, particularly styles in which larger leaves play an important role alongside young buds. Local conditions, however, give it its own distinctive nuances – colder winters, the humid climate of western Georgia and tea bushes growing in an environment very different from the traditional regions of Chinese white tea.
In the cup we therefore find the familiar softness, natural sweetness and gentle character of white tea, accompanied by a more pronounced herbal, fresh green and floral character.
Character of the infusion
The infusion is light, clear and delicate, yet far from faint. The aroma of the warmed leaves reveals notes of fresh tea leaves, meadow herbs, flowers and young vegetation. As the leaves gradually open, natural sweetness emerges together with delicate green and subtly fruity nuances.
The texture is soft and smooth, with a medium body. Particularly interesting is the contrast between its fresh aromatic character and the pleasant sensation of warmth that remains after drinking. A sweeter opening gradually develops into an herbal and floral middle, while the finish brings a gentle dryness and a lightly astringent, almost tingling sensation on the tongue.
At a lower water temperature, its floral, fresh and sweeter side comes to the foreground. A higher temperature emphasises the structure of the leaf, herbal notes and gentle tannins. The large leaves also open slowly over successive infusions, allowing the character of the tea to evolve from one steeping to the next.
It is a beautiful example of how the familiar character of white tea can acquire its own distinctive nuances in the conditions of Georgian tea gardens.
Who is this tea for?
We recommend it especially to lovers of whole-leaf white teas who enjoy naturally sweet and delicate teas but are looking for something more in the cup than lightness and floral fragrance alone. Etseri has enough structure and herbal character to appeal even to those who prefer more expressive white teas.
It will also be interesting for anyone wishing to explore the contemporary face of Georgian tea and compare how the same basic method of processing expresses itself in a completely different terroir.
Preparation
Western style
6 g / 300 ml 80 °C 3 minutes
This method is recommended by the producer and shows the tea's gentler, sweeter and floral-herbal side particularly well.
For a more pronounced infusion, the water temperature can gradually be increased to around 85 °C, or the steeping time can be slightly extended. This whole-leaf white tea can be infused repeatedly without difficulty.
Gongfu
5–6 g / 120–150 ml 85–90 °C
1st infusion: 30–40 seconds
2nd infusion: 40–50 seconds
3rd infusion: approximately 60 seconds
Gradually extend the steeping time for subsequent infusions according to taste.
For gongfu preparation, we recommend giving the tea plenty of room. The large leaves expand considerably after being infused, so a wider gaiwan or a teapot with sufficient space for the leaves is preferable.
