The History of Black Tea (Wakoucha) in Japan: From Curiosity to Craft

The History of Black Tea (Wakoucha) in Japan: From Curiosity to Craft

When most people think of Japanese tea, green tea varieties like sencha, gyokuro, or matcha usually come to mind. But Japan also produces black tea, known locally as Wakoucha (和紅茶)—literally "Japanese red tea." Though a niche within Japanese tea culture, wakoucha has a rich history intertwined with exploration, innovation, and adaptation. Wakoucha is the term used in Japan to describe domestically produced black tea. The name distinguishes it from imported black teas (koucha, 紅茶), which became popular during the Meiji period. Unlike the bold, malty flavors of Indian Assam or the floral notes of Chinese Dianhong, wakoucha tends to have a lighter body, mild astringency, and a naturally sweet, fruity or honeyed flavor. Its gentle character reflects the terroir of Japan and the use of tea cultivars traditionally grown for green tea.

The Pioneering Spirit: Tada Motoyoshi and Early Experiments

Japan's foray into black tea began during the Meiji Restoration (1868–1912), a time of rapid modernization and Western influence. One of the pivotal figures was Tada Motoyoshi (多田元吉), often referred to as the father of Japanese black tea. In the 1870s, the Meiji government sent Tada to China and India to study tea cultivation and black tea processing.

Upon his return, Tada introduced Assam and Chinese tea cultivars and began promoting black tea production, especially in regions like Shizuoka and Kagoshima. His efforts led to the establishment of training centers and experimental farms. Despite the early momentum, Japanese black tea struggled to compete on the global market with more established producers like India or Sri Lanka.

Benifuki, Benihomare, and Benimomare: Cultivar Innovations

Post-World War II, Japan's tea industry shifted focus back to domestic needs, and black tea production declined. However, research institutes continued to experiment with hybrid cultivars for black tea.

Among these, Benihomare (紅ほまれ) emerged in the 1950s as one of the first cultivars specifically bred for Japanese black tea. It was a cross between Assam and Darjeeling types, offering stronger flavor and better yield. In more recent years, cultivars like Benifuki and Benimomare (紅もまれ) have gained attention. Benimomare, in particular, is known for producing a rich, aromatic black tea with floral and dried fruit notes, helping revive interest in wakoucha as a premium artisanal product.



Surely today there are many other Japanese cultivars used for black tea:

Cultivar Year Purpose Notes
Benihomare (紅ほまれ) 1953 Black tea First true wakoucha cultivar
Benihikari (紅ひかり) 1971 Black tea Cold-resistant
Benifuji (紅ふじ) 1971 Black tea Darjeeling aroma
Benikaori (紅かおり) 1983 Black tea Elegant and aromatic
Benibana (紅ばな) 1986 Black tea Balanced cup
Benifuuki (べにふうき) 1993 Black & green tea Popular and versatile
Benimidori (紅みどり) 2008 Black tea Strong liquor
Benimomare (紅もまれ) 2012 Black tea Floral, modern favorite

Recently two other originally green tea cultivars gained popularity as black teas, Yabukita (やぶきた) and Sayamakaori (さやまかおり) .

A Journey Across the Sea: Daikokuya Kodayu

Though not directly linked to tea cultivation, the tale of Daikokuya Kodayu (大黒屋光太夫) offers a symbolic connection to Japan's outward gaze during the Edo period. Kodayu was a Japanese merchant who, after being shipwrecked in 1783, spent several years in Russia and even met Catherine the Great. His return to Japan with knowledge of the West foreshadowed the kind of cross-cultural curiosity that would later fuel experiments like those of Tada Motoyoshi.

In 1783, while captaining a trading vessel, Kōdayū and his crew were caught in a storm and shipwrecked in the North Pacific. After months adrift, they landed on one of the Aleutian Islands, which were part of the Russian Empire at the time. From there, Kōdayū and a few surviving crew members made an incredible overland journey across Siberia to Saint Petersburg. In 1791, Kōdayū was received by Empress Catherine the Great. With her permission, he eventually returned to Japan via Siberia and the Ryukyu Islands, arriving back in 1792—after a decade in exile. Kōdayū’s journey symbolizes early cross-cultural contact between Japan and the West during a time of official seclusion. His return was made possible thanks to diplomacy and Russia’s interest in opening relations with Japan. His detailed records and experiences provided rare insights into European society and governance for the Japanese elite of the time.

Though he wasn’t connected to tea himself, Kōdayū's story—of adaptability, exploration, and cultural exchange—is often seen as a metaphor for the spirit behind Japan's later experiments with foreign ideas, including black tea production, Western technology, and global trade.

Wakoucha Today: A Resurgence of Interest

In recent decades, wakoucha has seen a revival, driven by small-scale producers and tea artisans seeking to diversify Japan’s tea offerings. Specialty tea shops and enthusiasts in Japan and abroad are now recognizing wakoucha as a distinct and valuable part of the global black tea landscape.

Some of the best wakoucha comes from regions like Kagoshima, Shizuoka, Kumamoto, and Nara, often grown organically and processed with great care. Limited production and unique flavor profiles make these teas increasingly sought-after among connoisseurs.

Who Drinks Black Tea in Japan?

Older generations mostly stick to green tea or hōjicha, young women and café-goers prefer black tea, especially with desserts or as milk tea, tea enthusiasts seek out wakoucha for its terroir, cultivar uniqueness, and artisanal quality and the last but not least, tourists who are being increasingly exposed to Japanese black tea as part of local culture experiences.

Japanese people are aware of numerous studies conducted in Japan on heath benefits of tea and black tea in particular. People drinking black tea for its health qualities is a rapidly growing group of tea customers. Among many other health benefits, the black tea can be a great help with a weight control and especially women are aware of that. Waseda University researcher Takamizawa Naoko and colleagues demonstrated that drinking black tea with meals suppresses postprandial blood glucose spikes. The tea inhibits starch-digesting enzymes and fat-absorbing enzymes, resulting in slower sugar and fat absorption—making it potentially useful in diabetes prevention and as a weight-management aid.

Conclusion

Though it may not have the long, dominant history of Japanese green tea, wakoucha tells a fascinating story of experimentation, adaptation, and quiet resilience. From Tada Motoyoshi’s pioneering work to the development of cultivars like Benimomare, and from the spirit of exploration embodied by Daikokuya Kodayu, Japanese black tea reflects a deeper theme in Japan’s history: the ability to absorb outside influences and create something uniquely its own.

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