Taiwanese Black Tea Cultivars
Assamica, Wuyi, Shan Cha and the Emergence of Modern Taiwanese Black Tea
Taiwan today is primarily associated with oolongs, high-mountain teas, and refined aromatic styles. Yet black tea remains one of the most fascinating segments of modern Taiwanese tea production. Unlike many other tea-growing regions, the development of black tea in Taiwan was driven not only by processing techniques, but above all by systematic work with cultivars, breeding programs, and an understanding of how different genetic lines perform within a specific terroir.
This is one of the key differences compared to Fujian in mainland China. While Fujian has traditionally focused on processing methods, bud selection, and historical production styles, Taiwan has, since the second half of the twentieth century, invested heavily in the development of new cultivars designed for specific tea types. The result is an exceptionally broad spectrum of Taiwanese black teas—from robust Assamica cultivars and aromatic hybrids to teas made from the indigenous mountain tea known as Shan Cha.
Taiwan as an Important Producer of Black Tea
Today, Taiwan is perceived almost exclusively as an “oolong island,” yet historically it also played an important role in black tea production. This development began during the Japanese colonial period in the early twentieth century. At the time, global demand for black tea was growing rapidly, and Taiwan became one of the major export centers in East Asia. Production was concentrated primarily in the regions of Taoyuan, Hsinchu, and Miaoli, while Japanese trading companies such as Mitsui played an important role by marketing Taiwanese black tea under the Nitto Black Tea brand.
By the 1930s, exports of Taiwanese black tea had even surpassed exports of oolong and Bao Zhong tea. This is particularly remarkable today, when Taiwan is associated almost exclusively with lightly oxidized teas. However, the modern character of Taiwanese black tea began to take shape later, with the development of research programs at the Tea Research and Extension Station (TRES), which focused on breeding new cultivars adapted to Taiwan’s climate and terroir.
Main Directions of Taiwanese Black Tea
Modern Taiwanese black tea can be broadly divided into three main categories.
The first is based on the large-leaf variety Camellia sinensis var. assamica, which was introduced to Taiwan during the Japanese period and subsequently further developed through breeding. These cultivars produce fuller, more structured teas with deeper oxidation and a more pronounced body.
The second category originates from smaller Chinese varietals and oolong cultivars, often tracing their roots to Fujian or Wuyi. These teas tend to be more aromatic, floral, and delicate.
And then there is a third category—the indigenous Taiwanese wild tea known as Shan Cha (山茶). This uncultivated mountain tea plant represents an original genetic foundation of part of Taiwan’s black tea production.
It is precisely the combination of these three directions that creates the unique character of Taiwanese black tea.
Assamica Cultivars
The Foundation of Modern Taiwanese Black Tea
The most important group consists of cultivars derived from Assamica. Their typical characteristics include:
- larger leaves,
- higher polyphenol content,
- a fuller body,
- deeper oxidation,
- malty and fruity notes.
The production of these teas is closely associated with the Sun Moon Lake (日月潭) region and Yuchi Township in Nantou County.
TTES No. 8 (台茶8號)
Taiwan Assam
TTES No. 8 is one of the most important historical cultivars of Taiwanese black tea. It was developed in 1973 from an Indian Jaipuri Assamica lineage and is often referred to simply as “Taiwan Assam” within Taiwan.
Its character is defined primarily by:
- maltiness,
- fullness,
- a deeper body,
- caramel notes,
- stewed fruit.
Compared to TTES No. 18, it is less aromatic but considerably more robust. Compared with classic Indian Assam, however, the Taiwanese environment produces lower astringency, greater clarity, and a smoother texture. For this reason, TTES No. 8 is often recommended not only for drinking on its own, but also for milk tea and blends. It retains its structure even after the addition of milk. It is the cultivar that comes closest to the European idea of a “classic black tea,” while at the same time demonstrating how profoundly terroir can transform the character of Assamica.
In the Good Tea selection you will find an exceptional Taiwanese Assam black tea:
Taiwan Black Assam T-8 from Sun Moon Lake | Riyuetan Ming Qian Asamu Hong Cha
TTES No. 18 (紅玉, Hóng yù)
Ruby Red Jade
Probably the most famous Taiwanese black tea cultivar.
Ruby Red Jade was developed by crossing:
- Taiwanese Assamica,
- and the indigenous wild tea known as Shan Cha.
It is the Shan Cha component that gives Hong Yu its distinctive aromatic profile.
Typical characteristics include:
- cinnamon,
- menthol,
- light resinous notes,
- a cooling finish,
- long-lasting aromatics.
Compared to TTES No. 8, Hong Yu is more aromatic, less “breakfast style,” and significantly more distinctive in character.
In Taiwan, it is generally recommended for drinking without milk, as its aromatic complexity is its greatest strength.
At Good Tea, this style is represented by
Taiwanese Black Tea from Yuchi Ruby Red Jade T-18 | Yu Chi Hong Yu Hong Cha
TTES No. 21 (紅韻, Hóng yùn)
Hong Yun / Red Rhythm
TTES No. 21 represents a newer generation of Taiwanese black tea.
After nearly forty years of development, it was officially released in 2008. The name Hong Yun (紅韻) can be translated as “Red Melody” or “Red Rhythm” and refers to the distinctive aromatic character of this cultivar.
It was developed through a combination of:
- Indian large-leaf Assamica,
- and a small-leaf Qi Men (Keemun) type.
This is where the influence of the so-called Qi Yun (祁韻) character enters Taiwanese black tea—the aromatic profile associated with high-quality Keemun teas. The result is a tea with pronounced floral notes, honey sweetness, fruitiness, delicate spice, and sometimes even a citrus-floral character reminiscent of citrus blossoms. Compared to TTES No. 8, it has a lighter body and lower astringency, but a significantly more complex aroma. It is one of the finest examples of the modern direction of Taiwanese black tea—less focused on strength and more on aromatic layering.
At Good Tea, the Hong Yun T-21 cultivar is represented by
Taiwanese Black Tea from Yuchi Hong Yun T-21 | Yu Chi Hong Yun Hong Cha
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Wuyi, Fujian and the Influence of Mainland China
Geographically, Fujian is very close. Historically, even closer.
The first tea plants introduced to Taiwan were brought by settlers from Fujian, and many older Taiwanese tea gardens were originally planted with varietals related to Northern Fujian teas and Wuyi tea material.
These tea plants differ from Assamica in their:
- smaller leaves,
- finer structure,
- greater aromatic intensity,
- more pronounced floral character,
- lower astringency.
This genetic lineage is partly responsible for the aromatic profile of several modern Taiwanese black tea cultivars.
Today, however, the difference between Fujian and Taiwan is substantial. Fujian focuses primarily on processing techniques, bud selection, gentler oxidation, sweetness, and elegance. Typical examples include Zhengshan Xiaozhong and Jin Jun Mei. Taiwan, on the other hand, places greater emphasis on cultivars, breeding, terroir, higher elevations, and greater aromatic openness. Fujian creates character primarily through processing. Taiwan creates it through genetics and terroir.
Shan Cha (山茶)
The Indigenous Taiwanese Wild Tea
Alongside cultivated varieties, Taiwan is also home to an indigenous mountain tea known as Shan Cha. It is not a conventional cultivar, but rather native genetic populations of tea plants growing in higher mountain regions. It is often associated with Camellia formosensis or with local hybrid populations. Taiwanese producers commonly distinguish between green-bud Shan Cha and red-bud Shan Cha (赤芽山茶). Both types are relatively rare.
Compared to conventional cultivars, these teas display a distinctly different character: honey notes, floral aromatics, a mineral finish, a slightly “wild” structure, and a long aftertaste. The leaves tend to be thicker, less uniform, and more natural in appearance than those of modern cultivars. Shan Cha is important not only as a tea in its own right, but also as a genetic foundation for several modern cultivars—including TTES No. 18.
The Taiwanese camellia is the only truly indigenous tea species among all tea types available on the market. It is an evergreen shrub or small tree belonging to the family Theaceae and the genus Camellia, reaching heights of up to 8 metres, with a trunk diameter at breast height of up to 30 centimetres and a lifespan exceeding 100 years. It is distributed mainly throughout the mountainous regions of Nantou, Yunlin, Chiayi, Kaohsiung, Pingtung, and Taitung counties at elevations between 700 and 1,650 metres. The largest populations are found in the Nanfeng and Minghai mountain areas, which fall under the jurisdiction of the Liugui Experimental Forest of the Taiwan Forestry Research Institute.
In the Good Tea selection you can find a wild Taiwanese black tea here:
Wild Taiwanese Black Tea | Shan Cha
Oolong Cultivars Used for Black Tea
Taiwan is also a major centre of oolong production, and for this reason some oolong cultivars have gradually been adopted for black tea manufacture as well. Typical examples include Jin Xuan (金萱, TTES No. 12), Si Ji Chun (四季春), and Qingxin (青心). When fully oxidized, these cultivars produce teas with a lighter body, greater floral character, lower astringency, and a smoother texture. A typical example is Taiwan Black Jin Xuan. Even at full oxidation, it retains some of the characteristic “oolong” elegance, creaminess, and delicate floral notes.
Honey Fragrance Black Tea - Mi Xiang Hong Cha 蜜香紅茶
The Key Role of Jacobiasca formosana in the Development of Taiwanese Black Tea
One of the most fascinating modern directions in Taiwanese black tea is the category known as honey fragrance teas. Their development is linked to the leafhopper Jacobiasca formosana (茶小綠葉蟬 Chá xiǎo lǜyè chán), which feeds on tea leaves. Once attacked, the tea plant begins producing defensive aromatic compounds that later develop into honey notes, fruitiness, and gentle sweetness during oxidation. Originally, this insect was considered a problem because damaged leaves were unsuitable for producing delicate green or oolong teas. Taiwanese farmers eventually discovered that full oxidation transformed these leaves into an entirely new style of black tea. This discovery had another important consequence—many producers significantly reduced pesticide use in order to preserve the leafhopper population. Honey fragrance black tea thus became one of the unexpected bridges between traditional tea production and organic cultivation.
Da Ye Oolong (大葉烏龍)
An Important Foundation of Honey Fragrance Black Tea
The large-leaf Da Ye Oolong was among the important Taiwanese cultivars during the Japanese colonial period. Today it is cultivated mainly in Hualien and Taitung, the warmer and drier regions of eastern Taiwan. This cultivar responds particularly well to leafhopper activity and is frequently used for producing honey fragrance black tea. The resulting teas offer honey sweetness, fruitiness, delicate floral notes, and almost no astringency.
Qing Xin Gan Zi (青心柑仔)
Sanxia and a Different Style of Taiwanese Black Tea
Qing Xin Gan Zi represents a distinct chapter in Taiwanese tea culture. This traditional cultivar is associated primarily with the Sanxia region of northern Taiwan. Historically it was used mainly for green tea production, but in recent years it has increasingly been used as a foundation for honey fragrance black tea. After leafhopper activity, it develops delicate honey notes, an exceptionally smooth liquor, minimal astringency, and a pronounced returning sweetness in the finish. Today, Sanxia represents one of the most interesting modern directions in Taiwanese black tea outside the Sun Moon Lake region.
Conclusion
Modern Taiwanese black tea did not emerge by copying either Assam or Fujian. It developed through a combination of Assamica genetics, indigenous Shan Cha mountain tea plants, the influence of Fujian and Wuyi traditions, systematic breeding programs, and Taiwan’s unique mountain terroir. This is why robust TTES No. 8, aromatic Ruby Red Jade (Hong Yu / T-18), elegant Hong Yun (T-21), oolong-based black teas, honey fragrance black teas, and indigenous wild Shan Cha can all coexist within the same tea culture today.
It is precisely this diversity that makes Taiwan one of the most fascinating regions in the contemporary world of black tea.